If only I could summarize Cairo in three phrases then they would be: dysfunctional trash bin resulting in litter strewn streets, very functioning horns, and culture of baksheesh. And all of them, fortunately with the rich history backgrounds that spanning more than five thousands years from the Ancient Egypt to Islamic era and minority Coptic community to today’s modern Cairo.
We spent the whole day exploring Cairo. Afwan, our guide, took us not only to those tourists usual sites but also the backside of Cairo not usually in the tour agent itinerary. He showed us areas full of student dormitories from Indonesia and Malaysia in Nasr City, visited student-run businesses such as restaurants serving the students, to Al Azhar campuses, or to mausoleum of Imam Shafi’i. He insisted us to aboard public boat ride on the last night in Cairo, which we’re grateful we accepted later.
Started at 8.30 in the morning we hit the road for the Mosque of Amr bin Al-Aas, the first mosque ever built in Egypt. Within walking distances to it is Coptic Cairo areas with as many churches in one single area as could be in Cairo.
We’re trapped in typical Cairo traffic trying to get to Asfour Crystal (hey check your purchase!) on the north Cairo before recharging ourselves with simple West Sumatra cuisines in Nasr City.
Then, tuck into a slum area of the City of the Dead, where 500,000 people depend their daily life to the eery city, for a mausoleum of Imam Shafi’i before going to the beautiful mosque of Ibn Tulun. The latter has inspired I.M. Pei to build Qatar’s Museum of Islamic Art based on cubism architectures in the mosque.
Khan el-Khalili was the next stop, the perfect place to practice your haggling skills! We’re fortunate we had Afwan as he is fluent in Arabic and with his sense of humor he always managed to get big discounts. Prices for souvenirs here are cheaper by Qatar standard.
While in here, we visited El Fishawy coffee shop, tempted by a good review in Lonely Planet. With a glass of coffee as cheap as 4 QAR and shisha for 10QAR this two-century old coffee shop is a treat after that shopping marathon in the bazaar or if you fancy people watching. Prepare your refusal words though as no single minute passed without roaming vendors!
We closed our Cairo chapter by taking a cheap public boat ride (70 EGP for 3 adults 2 children?); a 20-min ride on the river Nile, accompanied by blaring Arabic music, tacky dances by the youth and with glittering views of building alongside the river.
Today is our fourth day in Egypt. Our plan is to fly out of Cairo to Luxor, a city frequently characterized as the world’s greatest open air museum .
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We had until 10am in the morning before we checked out from Novotel. Not long before we’re ready for a short walk across Tahrir Bridge. It was Saturday, traffic was expectedly low and quiet, and the weather was so pleasant. We leisurely walked on the bridge that spanning around 360m over the river Nile, down to Tahrir Square, and then back to the hotel. A good 30-min walking exercise before good breakfast at Novotel.
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The flight to Luxor is only one hour. Egypt Air offers multiple flights daily (starts from 500 QAR return) including ones early in the morning from Cairo and late evening from Luxor; making Luxor as a quick weekend escape.
We stopped-by briefly at Wisma Nusantara Cairo for storing our luggages – we would stay here for two days upon our return from Luxor. This hostel is currently managed by the Indonesian students in Al Azhar University. From its guestbook it can be easily noticed that it’s a favorite among Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei visitors and it’s received positive feedbacks. Apart from the hostel, Wisma Nusantara hosts a rentable hall, offices for the Islamic activities as well as accommodations for its management. It may worth your consideration when you are planning to visit Cairo, so you can contribute to its sustainability. Its close location to Ganena Mall, KFC and QNB ATM and a short drive from the airport is also an added plus.
Luxor is a laid back small city, at the opposite contrast to chaotic Cairo. Its population (currently about half a million) is heavily dependent upon tourism. However, large numbers of people also work in agriculture such as sugar cane (clearly visible during the balloon ride and from a short ride from the airport to the city center).
Twenty minute van ride from the airport saw us Nefertiti Hotel , a small budget hotel where its affordable price doesn’t correlate with its strategic location and very excellent staff services; winning accolades from TripAdvisor. Tucked away in the entrance to Luxor Market, Nefertiti also offered an excellent restaurant and incomparable rooftop seating area, overlooking Avenues of the Sphinxes, the Nile and the Theban Hills on the West Bank.
Via the hotel (who also manages Aladin Tours), we’ve booked one-and-half-day tour in Luxor; starting from Karnak Sound and Light Show at 7pm, and then balloon ride and the West Bank in the morning and Karnak Temple in the afternoon.
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The sun has just set on the horizon with the Nile and the Theban Hills as backdrops; providing one of the unforgettable memories of sunset watching ever. Still enough time before we would be picked up for the Show in Karnak Temple, we chose to have early dinner in the rooftop; tasting what Egyptian Authentic Bedouin cuisines like. Camel meat dish, Egyptian style omelette, mixed grill, and umm ali were probably representable
The Show, in English, starts at 7pm. Karnak Temple is located about 3km north of Luxor city center. In the past, and we can see it today, Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple are connected by the Avenue of the Sphinxes. Some 1,350 sphinx statues are thought once to have flanked the path. Unfortunately this path is not well maintained the way I see it.
The show, which last for about one and half an hour, tells the history of Thebes and of the Pharaohs who built, extended the temple. Images of the Pharaoh were projected on the temple wall, accompanied by narration of the history of Luxor and the temple. Looking at the massive, grand temple in the dark, illuminated by the light of full moon above us seemed to throw us centuries or thousands years ago. The magical feeling of walking side-by-side to the floodlit 134 gigantic columns inside the Hypostyle Hall was indescribable.
Upon passing through the fallen obelisk (one of the three remaining obelisks in Egypt), visitors were escorted to seating areas by the Sacred Lake for the final history-telling show. That made up our fourth day!
Indonesian is voting its 7th president. While the voting day is 9 July 2014 back home, it’s 4 July in Qatar. Voting was held in Doha, Al Khor, Dukhan and Messaieed.
Source: Personal documentation except the last 3 photos from Election Committee whatsapp group.
A reception to congratulate long service employees of Qatargas was held on 27 May 2014 inwhich I received a certificate marking completion of 5 years service. And still counting?
This mantra seems embedded into Taipei city’s government mind when they manage and govern the city. A cosmopolitan city, Taipei provides spaces scattered across the entire city for its residents to unwind, get connected with others or appreciate nature. With good access from public transportation and adequate, if not excellent, facilities in the parks, there is no reason not to come and love the parks.
Look at some of the parks I visited while I was there. I am envious!
228 Memorial Park. A park to commemorate 228 incidents. Located close to Presidential Building and walking distance from Taipei Main Station. MRT NTU Hospital is right at the park.
Daan Forest Park. An oasis in the city. This vast park is located next to Taipei Grand Mosque.
Shilin Residence Gardens. This is the former residence of late Republic of China President Chiang Kai-shek located on Zhongshan North Road in Shilin District. Chinese and Western style gardens are open for public.
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)-designed linear park near Zhongshan MRT Station
When pedestrian is a park in itself
Treasure Hill Artivist. According to Wikipedia:
Treasure Hill is originally an illegal settlement, was founded by the Kuomintang military veterans at the end of 1940’s and served originally as an anti-aircraft position.
After cooperating with non-governmental organization Global Artivists Participation Project, the Taipei City Government developed the area into an example of environmentally sustainable urban community.With the policy of preservation and revitalization, the old settlement unfolded a new vision of an artivist compound which would respect the existing fabric of the community while fulfilling the regeneration concept of “symbiosis” to incorporate production and ecology in communal living and ushering in the program of an international youth hostel and creative ideas of art to further cultural exchanges with broader international communities.
Commissioned by the municipal government to propose an ecological masterplan for the area, Finnish architect Marco Casagrande found that that this settlement, perhaps because of its illegal and marginal status, has evolved organically to operate according to an ecological model: recycling and filtering grey water, using minimal amounts of electricity (“stolen” from the city grid), composting organic waste, and repurposing Taipei’s waste. Casagrande relates his experiences of working on the site: For the ecological urban laboratory I had to do nothing, it was already there. What I did was to construct wooden stairways and connections between the destroyed houses and some shelters for the old residents to play mah-jong and ping-pong.
The community has been featured in The New York Times as one of Taiwan’s must-see destinations.
Treasure Hill is the attic of Taipei carrying the memories, stories and traditions of the past generations. In some way it is a reflection of the Taipei mind that the industrial city is not able to reflect. For the stories to surface the industrial city must be turned over: the city must be a compost. —Marco Casagrande
Police closed the area in 2007 in order to guarantee safety for restoration work.The restored Treasure Hill reopened as an artist village in 2010 with only 22 original families managing to move back to the settlement.The restoration process has been criticized to have caused the neighbourhood to be stripped of its prior residents and turned into a space which celebrates individual expression and artistic creativity at the expense of housing lower income families
Cycling or Taichi? We have a space for you
Taipei Botanical Garden. The Botanical Garden covers an area of about 15 hectares and includes over 1,500 plant species, in 17 districts. In any given day you may find Tai-chi practitioners, photographers club, elderly with their nanny, plant enthusiast, or families enjoying a walk. Best visited with combination visit to National Museum of History nearby. The garden is 5-min walk from Xiaonanmen MRT station.
Taipei Expo Park. The park was the venue for the Taipei International Flora Exposition in 2010-2011. Currently this large park consists of many park elements such as Taipei’s Children recreation Center, Taiwan Excellence Exhibition, Taipei Fine Arts Museum, Taipei Story House, Expo Dome, Pavilion of Flowers, Rose Garden, etc. The park is accessible within walking distance East from Yuanshan Station of the Taipei Metro
Shongshan Cultural and Creative Park is a multifunctional park in Xinyi District (MRT SYS Memorial Hall).
The park was initially constructed in 1937 as a tobacco factory under the name Songshan Tobacco Plant of the Monopoly Bureau of the Taiwan Governor’s Office under the Japanese government. After the handover of Taiwan to China in 1945, the Taiwan Provincial Monopoly Bureau took over the factory and renamed it as the Songshan Tobacco Plant of the Taiwan Provincial Monopoly Bureau. In 1947, the plant was renamed again as Songshan Tobacco Plant of the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Bureau.
The factory ceased to produce cigarettes in 1998 for concern over urban planning, tobacco and liquor marketing regulatory changes and the decline in tobacco demand.
In 2001, the Taipei City Government designed the defunct tobacco factory as Taipei’s 99th historic site and converted it into a park comprising city-designated historic sites, historical structures and architectural highlights. Together with Taipei Dome, the site is known as Taipei Cultural and Sporting Complex.
For more efficient reuse of space, in 2011 the former factory was turned into a creative park by its current name to provide venues for diverse cultural and creative exhibitions and performances.
Points of interest in the park include: Red Dot Design Museum, Taiwan Design Museum, Eslite Spectrum (design-themed mall), array of design stores. A nice fountain with backdrop of Taipei 101 is also worth a visit.
Huashan 1914 Creative Park. If Shongshan was a site for Tobacco Factory, Huashan was a winery that produced sake and ginseng wines, and bred moth orchids. This multi-purpose park showcases creative talents from theater groups, painters, wood sculptors, writers, movie producers and directors from Taiwan and abroad. The park is also a good place to browse design stores or nice restaurants. The park is accessible within walking distance West from Zhongxiao Xinsheng Station of the Taipei Metro
Taipei Hakka Cultural Park. The 4 hectare Hakka Culture Park, in the Gongguan area of Taipei City (MRT Taipower Building), features a central plaza, delonix plaza, tung flower trail, bike station, farming experience area and eco-pond. Hakka are Han Chinese who speak Hakka Chinese and have links to the provincial areas of Guangdong, Jiangxi, Guangxi, Sichuan, Hunan and Fujian in China. In Taiwan, Hakka people comprise about 15 to 20% of the population and are descended largely from Guangdong immigrants: they form the second-largest ethnic group on the island. Best visited with a combined trip to Shida Night Market (MRT Taipower Building, Exit 3) on Shida Road.
Dahu Park. I visited this park intrigued by a picture of the park’s moon bridge on Dailymail. Though I can’t reproduce the same picture 🙂 I found this was an interesting visit in itself. The park has its own Dahu Park MRT station.
There are at least 47 museums in Taipei and 14 in New Taipei. Most charge free admission or if they do only minimal fee (NTD30 or NTD50), making museums hopping is very affordable. Also, most museums have provided dual language exhibitions, understanding is not an issue. I can’t visit a place without understanding a context of the place and therefore visiting a museum is at the top of the list. National Palace Museum, National Museum of History and National Taiwan Museum provides adequate contexts for Taiwan whereas “Discovery Center” for Taipei. Besides these, there are several unique museums with unique positioning such as Miniature Museum of Taiwan, Gold Museum, Hot Spring Museum or Museum of Drinking Water. See?
Looking at museums below I realized how far I have travelled.
National Palace Museum
It is probably the most recommended museum to visit to understand the context of Taiwan and China. The only thing consequentially is that it can be crowded (with tour-herded Mainland China tourist) you may not be able to enjoy it. Among more than 690,000 collections (90% of which rare books/archival documents), the crowd pulles are Jadeite Cabbage and Meat Shaped Stone.
Red 30 Bus from Shilin MRT Station or Brown 20 from Jiannan MRT Station will take you to outside of the Museum’s B1. Admission NTD160. Free daily tours in English at 10:00 and 15:00. No photography allowed.
National Taiwan Museum
Established in 1908, this is the oldest museum in Taiwan. The museum is located at 228 Peace Park (accessed through NTU (National Taiwan University) Hospital MRT Station, Exit 4). It provides a good context for native Taiwanese and geological history and mineral as well as biodiversity of Taiwan. Best visited along with Land Bank Exhibition Hall of NTM, just across diagonally the street.
Can you believe true whiskey in a tiny 1cm bottle? A TV smaller than a postage stamp actually works? A chandelier with 40 bulbs the size of grain of rice ina one twelfth scale in Buckingham Palace?
MMOT is the first and only one of the kind in East Asia. I was amazed by its huge collections and fine details of miniatures, the patience when creating them. I wish I could shrink and go inside them.
MOCA is the first art institution in Taiwan dedicated exclusively to contemporary art. The museum building was originally the Jan Cheng Elementary School, established during the Japanese colonial period. Spanning across two floors, the exhibitions and performance spaces, MOCA connects cultural history with contemporary arts. Whereas public art on an area between the museum plaza and Zhongshan MRT Station transforms the linear park into an art trail and improve the visual aesthetics of the local environment.
Practicalities:
No. 39 ChangAn West Road, Taipei, Taiwan 103. http://www.mocataipei.org.tw MRT Tamsui Line, Zhongshan Station Exit R4. Tuesday to Sunday, 10am – 6pm. Monday Closed. Themed Exhibitions: NTD50, general admissions: NTD45. No flash while photographing.
Taiwan Design Museum and Red Dot Museum
Both museum are located at Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, 700m from CKS Memorial Hall MRT Station. Also visit Eslite Spectrum, a multi purpose building with floors dedicated for design-themed stores.
A minimalist bone-whote facade juxtaposed by transversal beams define the singular and dignified edifice that is the Taipei Fine Arts Museum. TFAM focuses on the procurement of outstanding works by Taiwanese artists from the 20th century to the present, producing a chronology of fine art as it developed in Taiwan.
When visiting TFAM don’t forget to visit Taiwan Excellence (connected to TFAM by a bridge) that displays “made in Taiwan” quality products. Also opposite the museum is Taipei Story House and nearby Taipei Expo Park.
TFAM
181 Zhongshan North Road Section 3, Taipei 10461. http://www.TFAM.com . Tue – Sun, 9:30am – 5:30pm. Mon Closed. Entrance fee NTD30 (excluding special exhibition). MRT: Tamsui Line, Yuanshan Station, Exit 1 in the direction of Zhongshan North Road. 10-min walk. No photography allowed.
National Museum of History (NMH)
NMH exhibits Chinese historical items. The museum is established in a Japanese style building near Taipei Botanical Garden (there is a shortcut from the garden near Lotus Pond). Don’t miss a great view from the 3rd floor of the museum: Lotus Pond.
NMH
No. 49 Nánhǎi Rd, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100. Taipei Botanical Garden can be accessed within 5-min walk from Xiaonanmen MRT Station. The museum can also be accessed from CKS Memorial Hall MRT Station (10-12min walk). Admission: NTD30
Museum of Drinking Water
What museum?
Here what you will see: old pumps, old MCC (motor control center), pipe fittings, tanks, a Baroque style building and a bit of history, Access via MRT Gongguan Station Exit 4. Best visited along with Taipei Water Park or Gongguan Riverside (bike lane)
Discovery Center of Taipei
This place is a good educational center to get your bearings on the city and its history. The center is housed within Taipei City Hall (within walking distance from Taipei City Hall MRT Station, Free Admission). Quoting its website, Taipei City Government designated it as a modern stage for “citizens,” “cities,” “interactive dialogue with visitors,” and “presenting achievements of city construction. “It is responsible for social education, the promulgation of civil politics, and the promotion of the city. This center exhibits the city’s technology, history, humanity, art, and ecology. Through various perceptive and interactive displays, visitors are introduced to the development of Taipei City”.
Gold Museum
The museum looks generic with its nice display of gold mining industry in Jinguashi, miniature of underground tunnels, until I came to the end of visit, when I saw a 220-kg gold brick. Yes, it’s real!
Surrounding environment, as it is located at Gold Ecological Park, also makes this museum worth a visit. Don’t miss an opportunity to go inside the Tunnel (NTD50), or panning gold (NTD100). Gold Museum and areas are free anyway. Other attractions include abandoned rail tracks, Four Joined Japanese Houses, Environment Building, Shinto Shrines, The Crown Prince Chalet. All set high above the village in green, quiet hillsides.
Bus 1062 from Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station Exit 1 will take you to the site for a little over an hour through twisty mountain roads.
Beitou Hot Spring Museum
The museum was originally the Beitou Public Bathhouse, the largest bathhouse in the East Asia at the time (Japanese colonial period). House in a building resembles English house, the museum recounts Beitou hot spring industry. On display are historical relics and documents which tells stories of the sulfur mining, the hot spring and Taiwanese films. I particularly like the building itself, Japanese interiors and radioactive measurement from sulfur blocks. The museum is located at Beitou, one of the Taiwan hot spring centers, easily accesible by MRT Tamsui Line, Beitou Station, continued with another train to Xinbeitou. Visit to the museum may be combined with visit to Thermal Valley, Ketagalan Cultural Center, hiking or private hot spring bath available at many hotels in the area. A very nice Beitou Public Library building is nearby.
Memorial Halls
The halls are to commemorate two persons that have a place in Taiwan history: Chiang Kai Shek and Sun Yat-Sen (first president and founding father of the Republic of China).
228 Museums
There are two museums associated with 2/28 or 228, referring to a Febaruary 28. 228 incident was an anti-government uprising in Taiwan that began on February 27, 1947 which was violently suppressed by the Kuomintang (KMT)-led Republic of China government and which resulted in the massacre of numerous civilians, beginning on February 28, or 2/28.
228 Memorial Museum is located at 228 Peace Memorial Park whereas National 228 Memorial Park is located at Nanhai Road (5-7 minutes walk from CKS Memorial Hall MRT Station).
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